Showing posts with label natural foods. Show all posts
Showing posts with label natural foods. Show all posts

Friday, April 4, 2014

In the kitchen with Peter Rabbit

Peter Rabbit's Natural Foods Cookbook
By Arnold Dobrin Frederick Warne 1977

Here is a little gem. Children's author Arnold Dobrin takes inspiration from the world of Beatrix Potter in a small cookbook for children. Richly illustrated from Potter's work it is a feast for the eyes and conjures up a halcyon world of cozy tea-tables and kitchen gardens.


I wish I knew more about Dobrin and how he devised his recipes. They are a fairly standard set of natural food recipes: lots of sandwiches made with creamed or cottage cheese, some simple soups, and most of the baked good include whole wheat flour or wheat germ.

There are no meat recipes, though some of the soups call for the option of chicken stock, so it is not a strictly vegetarian book. I can't tell if the vegetarianism is deliberate or a result of avoiding the dangers of sautéing and roasting and the increased food safety issues of raw meat.

But the techniques are not all simple. Dobrin calls for some surprisingly sophisticated techniques, including blanching tomatoes to remove their skins, using a food mill, and stir-frying, all advanced moves for an adult in 1977.

There are technique and safety tips at the back of the book, but it clearly assumes that children will be cooking with adult supervision. Dobrin never talks down to his audience, and I like his frequent tag for optional ingredients like raisins and nuts--use them "if you like them." What better way to learn about taste than to learn to trust your own palate?

That being said, some of the recipes have more appeal than others. Mr. McGregor's Scrumptious Pureed Beets may not get as many takers as Samuel Whiskers' Roly-Poly Pancakes. The breakfast and dessert sections are the most appealing, but I love the page entitled "How to Like Onions" which elucidates the different members of the allium family, their culinary uses, and how onions enhance the flavors of many dishes.

While I was past the target age for Potter when this book came out, I remember being fascinated by it and wanting to 1) cook from it and 2) be in Potter's world. I think it may also have been an early experience of nostalgia. I remembered reading the books as a small child and being frightened for Peter in the garden. I remembered trying to figure out what cambric tea was and how it would taste. Just as I had when very small, I identified more with some characters than others and that spilled over into my liking or disliking of recipes based on their associated characters rather than their ingredients.

In addition, it was somewhere around this time, or maybe a bit later, that I read Nothing is Impossible: The Story of Beatrix Potter a biography written for children by Dorothy Aldis. Although Kirkus slammed its lack of detail and authority, I loved its portrayal of how a young artist found her medium and her subject matter. It is a very interior book, but it suited the subject. And while today I am only an occasional reader of biographies, those I do read tend to be about artists and musicians.

Aren't I sweet? And my cover is washable!

Friday, March 21, 2014

Sap season

I have a minor leaning toward learning to live off the grid. I love the Foxfire series of books and the idea of DIY projects like creating a pergola out of repurposed rebar. However, I am not that interested in actually doing the projects--work, friends, books, and other fun gets in the way. Plus, being raised by handy people in farm country teaches you early just how much work is involved in pioneer activities. Thank God for the Rototiller and running water. I may not get any projects done, but my back is still in good shape.
 
Last of the 2013 vintage. Note I failed to filter it.
But I do like complex cooking/food projects. A couple of years ago I noticed the local natural parks and historic sites were all offering demonstrations on how maple syrup is made. Which got me thinking about the maples around me. Were they sugar maples? Could I get something out of them?

I had always heard/assumed that you could only do sugaring if you had a lot of trees and a sugar shack and boiler, etc. That is, it was a job for professionals. But when a friend showed up for brunch one day with a jar of homemade syrup from her old farmer neighbor, I got interested. A little poking around county extension web sites and I found it was a pretty simple process. The hard part of the information gathering was trying to find instructions for the really small-time hobbyist.

The upshot is that this is the 4th year we've tapped my parents' trees. We don't get a lot of syrup, but it's fun to do and makes me feel like I am getting something for nothing. Plus, we can taste the changes in the syrup as the season goes on, not to mention how it varies from other local producers.

We tapped a little late this year. I don't know what kind of harvest to expect given the unusually harsh winter. But it's nice to go out and check on the trees, see how the sap is running, and listen to the birds chatter at you.

And this is perhaps the ultimate in cook's treats--drinking off a cup of the fresh sap. It's a serious spring tonic when slugged from the collecting jug while surrounded by snow on a sunny day in late February. Crystal clear like spring water, you can taste the light sweetness of sap--but it doesn't just taste like sugared water. There are very slight notes of fruit, flowers, and minerals. I have to stop myself from just drinking it all. Much like when you go berry picking, you have to stop eating the berries already and put some in the bucket.

Most of the homegrown syrup is destined for pancakes, but I like to make buckwheat crepes with sautéed apples at least once--the delicacy of home syrup can really shine through.

Morning Food by Margaret S. Fox and John Bear of Mendocino's Café Beaujolais (Ten Speed Press, 1990) has a recipe that I've been tempted to try for hot cereal cooked in sap. I'm sure it's good, but I don't love hot cereal enough to use the sap on it. Morning Food is a great book that I often flip through on Saturdays for some breakfast inspiration. Café Beaujolais seems like an ideal mix of California's natural foods and indulgent eating. There are Morning Glory Muffins and Waffles with Smoked Turkey Sauce and Birchard Soaked Oats. I always imagine a sun-soaked room with lots of wood and the smell of coffee when I read this book.


I also have The Sugar Bush Connection by Beatrice Ross Buszeck (Nimbus Publishing, 1982), a charming hand lettered book of maple sugar/syrup recipes that I picked up on a glorious lobster- and lupine-filled trip to Prince Edward Island, Canada. This is a book for people overwhelmed with syrup. Many recipes would simply cost too much for most people to make, but I love the ingenuity of these cold-country cooks determined to use up something so hard-won. Her recipe for Spring Tonic sounds like it will cure anything that ails you: 

Spring Tonic
¼ c. maple syrup
¼ c. lime juice
1 c. light rum
1 c. ginger ale

Combine and stir well. Pour over crushed ice. Serving size is not indicated, but I am assuming 1-4 depending on you guests' tolerances for grog.

And in late breaking news. I spotted this at my local health food store (go Arbor Farms!): commercial Maple Tree Water. I don't know whether to be appalled or impressed with their entrepreneurial energy. But this is America, and if you can dream it you can sell it.

It's called sap, people


Thursday, January 16, 2014

Natural Cooking the Finnish Way


Natural Cooking the Finnish Way  
by Ulla Käkönen
Quadrangle/The New York Times Book Co. 1974

A twofer! Whole foods and Scandinavian cuisine in the same volume. While I have several natural foods cookbooks, I have only a handful of cookbooks from Northern Europe, so this is a special Venn diagram treat.

Written by a Finn, but for a U.S. audience, the recipes seem authentic but with suggestions for hard-to-get ingredients and explanations of techniques and recipes that are probably common knowledge for Finnish cooks.

I harbor a fondness for whole/natural foods--a holdover from my childhood with a mother who didn't buy anything with artificial ingredients or colors, made her own bread, jam, and yogurt, and raised chickens and rabbits for slaughter. We had TWO full size chest freezers for our family of four. How else are you going to store 50 chickens, half a cow AND the garden produce? 

This makes it sound like I was raised by hippies, but I must interject my mother's correction that she predates the hippies. She was a Bohemian, thank you very much.


As you can see, Natural Cooking the Finnish Way radiates good health, with its wholesome cover illustration of dairy, eggs, butterflies and flowers. I think that wheel in the background is a bread--but maybe it's a cheese?

The recipes are heavy on fish, potatoes, cabbage and other ingredients I associate with Northern cuisine. What is surprising is the number of grain porridges, cereal soups, and the use of organ meats. This ain't Aquavit's elegant take on Scandinavia. This is food meant to sustain people through a long winter and a short growing season--even shorter than Michigan's.
 
I pulled this out after finding myself with a huge bunch of dill leftover from making gravlax.  I wanted to use some up in a soup and didn't have a whole lot in the house, but I did have what it takes to make Dill Soup (Tillikeitto): potatoes, carrots, dill, pepper and cream. Easy-peasy and it gets point for being made with water instead of stock. I did add more salt than she called for--I find that to be a typical failing in the natural cookbooks--and a touch more cream, and a splash of Tabasco and lemon juice to spark it up. It was comforting and dilly and better the next day, when the flavors ripened.
 
Dill Soup
Adapted from Ulla Käkönen

4 c. water
¾ tsp. salt
¾ pound potatoes, peeled and diced
2 carrots, peeled and diced
1 cup fresh dill, finely chopped
pepper
¼ c. cream
Tabasco
Lemon juice

Bring salted water to boil. Add potatoes and carrots and simmer until soft, about 30 minutes. Blend with a stick or regular blender. Stir in dill, pepper, and cream. Adjust salt, add Tabasco and few drops of lemon juice if needed. If you add a lot of lemon juice it starts to taste like dill pickle soup--no bad thing either!